Step by step guide
Stud partition walls are normally built from 100 50mm (4 x 2in) softwood sawn timber.
First we mark out the wall’s position by drawing lines on the ceiling and floor. Horizontal timbers can then be fixed along the lines to form the header plate and base plate respectively (a.k.a. the top plate and soleplate). We nail through the floorboards into the joists. Fixing to concrete floors is done with screws and plugs.
Fixing should be fairly straightforward if the new wall runs at right angles to the floor joists. If it runs the same way as the joists, then unless it’s directly above a joist we need to provide extra support for the base plate in the form of strips of timber noggins (minimum of 50 x 38mm) between the joists. The same applies at the top, at ceiling level.
Next, the vertical timber studs are fixed in place, normally at 400mm, 450mm or 600mm centres. The precise spacing should match the size of plasterboard used. Standard plasterboard sheets are available in 2400 x 1200mm and 1800 x 900mm sizes as well as 1220 x 900mm. Studwork should be placed to allow the boards to join over a timber stud.
For added strength we fit at least one row of horizontal noggins, between the main vertical studs at about half height, which also provides an essential fixing point for the plasterboard sheets. When constructing the frame, skew-nailing – ie with the nails hammered in at an angle – is the quickest method of joining the various pieces. For the less experienced, it often helps to drill a pilot hole first.
If you know you’ll later need to hang stuff off this wall, such as radiators, towel rails or toilet cisterns, or you need to fix sockets or pictures, then we will fit extra rows of noggins at the appropriate height so that you’ll have something meaty to drill into. Alternatively, we can clad the walls with a plywood sheet before plasterboarding.